Out of the Blue

Accidents can happen when you least expect them. Is that one of Murphy's Laws? Before coming to Costa Rica, I worried a little about what might happen if one of us got sick or was injured. Our medical insurance does not work here, which is one consideration. Another is the possibility that this wonderful trip could be cut short. The even grimmer possibilities I won't even mention here.

Well, yesterday I had an accident. I had been lounging by the pool. It was hot but I was in the shade. After a while, I got thirsty and decided to go inside. I gathered my towel and iPad and headed along the cement walkway towards our condo. I turned a corner and started across a grate and up a slight incline, and before I knew it, I was falling backwards, landing on my left side - arm, hip, and leg - with a thump. My head was just inches from the concrete wall of the spa pool.

Immediately, several people who had seen me fall gathered around me. "Are you hurt?" "Is anything broken?" Well, yes, I was hurt, but no, nothing was broken - thank god! I got scrapes on my left elbow and hand, and my left hip, butt, and leg all ached (and still do). But as one woman said, "You are lucky. You could have hit your head on the concrete and gotten a concussion, or worse." I was also lucky that the iPad, which also landed on the concrete, was not broken.

Yes, I am lucky and I am filled with gratitude. It might have made an interesting story if I had been taken away by ambulance and brought to some local clinic or faraway city hospital. But this is a story I hope I never have to tell, about myself or Bob!

I am puzzled by what caused the fall. The pavement was not wet or slippery, and I had walked this way many times before. I didn't slip, and I didn't lose consciousness, but somehow I was upright one moment and on the ground the next. It was as if I had fainted, but I never lost consciousness, not even for a second. One woman thought that perhaps I got up from the chair too quickly in the heat and got dizzy or lightheaded. Perhaps that was it.

After a few minutes, in which I got over the shock of the fall and made sure that nothing was broken, I got up and completed my walk to the condo. Inside, Bob was working on a computer project and had not heard or seen any of the commotion. But once I told him what had happened, he was there for me in every way - a bastion of consideration, care, and comfort. So, yes, I am lucky in this way too - to have such a wonderful companion on this adventure. La Pura Vida!

The Rhythm of Our Lives in El Coco

The days are beginning to take on a pattern or routine of a sort. We arise early in the morning, sometime between 5-6 am. It is still dark at 5, but this is when the birds and monkeys begin their morning songs, and I really look forward to this early awakening.

We dress fairly quickly, grab a piece of fruit, or perhaps a light breakfast, and head out for a walk while it is still relatively cool outside. Sometimes, we explore the many streets of the Las Palmas complex. Other times, we head down the beach towards town. These walks always lead us to a morning cup of coffee, sometimes to a full breakfast out. There are many little cafes, sodas, and bistros to choose from. Perhaps we will have tried them all by the end of February? Perhaps not.

Bob in front of the Coco Palms Hotel-Bar-Restaurant-Mini Market, just off the beach in the village of El Coco.

 

We do our walking, breakfasting, and errands between 6 and 10 am. By ten, the sun is intense and it is very hot. At that point, we begin to lose steam and wilt like thirsty flowers. So, we come back to the condo and relax. We do our computer projects - read emails, catch up on the news in the states, blog, work on photo or video editing, etc. This is also a good time to swim in the pool, sunbathe (if one is so inclined; we are not), read, shower, tidy up the condo, or do laundry. Caveat: sometimes the water pressure is very low or the water is turned off altogether, so we can't count on showering or doing laundry at this time.

We would most likely have a light lunch at the condo and perhaps take a siesta afterwards. Then, usually, more pool time and/or blogging.

Around three or four o'clock, we begin to get ready to go out again for an afternoon walk, perhaps to do errands or explore the town. At some point, we might take a swim in the ocean. So far, neither of us has been drawn to do that. Our afternoon excursion might well bring us to a dinner spot, or at least to a happy hour at one of the many open-air bars in town.

Beach Bums Bar, Playas del Coco

 

Some interesting things happen in town in the late afternoon and early evening. Sunset happens between 5 and 6 pm, and it is lovely to be at the beach at that time. Also, the monkeys are active between 4:30 and 6:00 pm, and are often found hanging out at Coconutz, one of the open-air bars. Quite entertaining.

People-watching is another great adventure, especially at this time. Tourists are out in droves, at the shops and in the bars. And Tico "townies" are busy selling their wares, or engaging tourists in offers of tours and such. The Tico teen males can be found on the cement beach promenade practicing their skateboarding, roller skating, or bicycling skills or flirting with the young Ticas. Watching people bustling about in the village is endlessly entertaining.

 

At the beach, you can also watch pelicans and other seabirds diving for fish or watch the fishing and touring boats arrive and unload their catch or passengers.

There does not seem to be much in the way of nightlight for us older folks. Dining in a nice restaurant seems the best option. One near us, La Dolce Vita, plays nice Italian music, sometimes recorded, sometimes live. Last evening, as we walked by, we saw and heard a Costa Rican "crooner" singing Italian songs, such as "Volare", in Spanish! We have many restaurants yet to explore.

For the younger crowd, including Ticos who come here on weekends from San Jose, there is an active nightlife, based in the many bars in town, with names like The Lizard Lounge, Zi, Coconutz, La Vida Loca, the Coco Beach Casino, and many more. Each plays loud recorded music for dancing (way too loud for Bob's sensitive ears!). We gather that things get going around nine o'clock and can go until three in the morning.

Our pattern so far is to have a relatively early dinner out and then either walk home or take a taxi. We might linger in the Las Palmas Pueblito for dessert before heading for the condo.

After a day of walking, it is refreshing to sit at the small circular spa pool at the edge of the larger pool outside our condo and soak our feet in the cool water, while perhaps enjoying a beer or wine and doing some star-gazing. The night sky here is very clear and the visible stars are plentiful and bright. We can see at least two very bright planets overhead, though we have not yet figured out which ones they are. And the constellation Orion's Belt is directly overhead and very clear. Another early evening option would be a dip in the pool.

The spa pool and larger pool, as seen from our balcony.

 

We do have a TV in the condo - two actually - but so far we have not turned it on. Bob brought his Bose box all the way from home, with an iPhone full of danceable music, and we have plans to dance in the living room in the evening. So far, we've been too tired to dance, and tend to turn in early. But we are just getting acclimated. We expect to have much more energy in the days to come, especially given all those siestas!

 

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We Finally Saw the El Coco Monkeys

As mentioned in a previous blog, we have been told that there are three troops of monkeys (Howlers) in the El Coco area. Two of the troops live on the edges of town and they are not seen very often (though they ARE heard). The third troop of approximately 25 monkeys lives in town. They are sighted frequently.

In the late afternoon, we walked the beach to town hoping to glimpse these monkeys ("los monos"). We searched a lot of treetops near the beach hoping for a glimpse, but no go. At twilight, just as I had given up on sighting them today, there they were - several playful monkeys evidently entertaining the customers at a local outdoor bar called Coconutz.

Although the antics of these monkeys are fun to watch, these creatures also have the annoying habit of occasionally peeing or deficating on customers. As we stood on the sidewalk watching, a woman hurried out of the bar exclaiming, "A monkey shat on me; I need to go home and take a shower."

Soon after that, the monkeys began to leave and head off for the huge tree in a protected area, where they typically spend the night. I counted eight monkeys. Bob thought there were more.

What a thrill it was to see our first monkeys!

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A Few Moments in Playas del Coco

A few moments in Playas del Coco at the point where the main road meets the beach. In some ways very exotic, in some ways like every other beach town.

 

The bird sound is a small wooden two-note flute in the shape of a bird played by two women selling these flutes. I should have taken a shot of the bird flutes. (Video by Bob)



 

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Day Four in El Coco

Already we are losing track of time. One day melts into another. But today is Day 4 in El Coco, and it is Friday, February 1st. As I begin to write this post, It is 2:45 pm on a hot, sunny, windy, cloudless day. Bob and I are sitting in the shade by the pool, both with iPads in hand. We have had a refreshing dip in the pool, and our still-wet bathing suits help to prevent us from getting too hot.

This morning, we woke up early, but not early enough. We wanted to take a long walk in the cool of the morning, and perhaps catch sight of some monkeys and some exotic (to us) tropical birds. By the time we got going, it was 7 am and heating up.

We have since learned that there are three troops of howler monkeys in Playas del Coco. The biggest troop (about 25) live in town in a huge tree in a protected area. The best time to see them, we are told, is very early in the morning, between 5:00-6:00 am, or late afternoon, between 5:00-6:00 pm. Perhaps we'll catch sight of them later this afternoon. The other two troops live on the fringes of town and are not sighted as often.

We had three breakfasts this morning, though this was not intentional. First, we had some fruit at home. Next, we stopped by the Creperie in the Las Palmas Pueblito for a cup of coffee, where I also had fruit and a bagel. I also wanted to connect with their wifi, which seems stronger than the one at the condo, to upload two blog posts that I had not been able to publish from our unit. Bob was not yet ready for breakfast, so we finished our computer business and moved on.

We again walked the beach to the village. What a glorious morning!

Beach scene, early morning, Playas del Coco, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)

 

In the village, on the south end of the beach, we discovered a rickety bridge leading to a bar called La Vida Loca. Not open of course. Too early. But it had some interesting statuary and a casual local ambiance. Perhaps we'll go there some night for a beer, though I suspect this place caters to a much younger crowd.

Connie on rickety bridge leading to La Vida Loca, Playas del Coco, Costa Rica. (Photo by Bob)

La Vida Loca, Playas del Coco, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)

Statues at La Vida Loca, Playas del Coco, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)

"Firm Hand on the Tiller" (Bob's title) - Statue at La Vida Loca, Playas del Coco, Costa Rica. (Photo by Bob)

 

Retracing our steps to the main street in town, we walked a block or so to a bistro called Woody's. A condo neighbor had recommended this place for breakfast. This is an very well-maintained open-air restaurant that clearly caters to Americans. Bob finally got his full breakfast, a delicious combination of huevos (eggs), sausage, rice & beans, tortilla, pineapple, and fried plantains. And, of course, more cafe por dos.

Woody's Bistro, El Coco, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)

At Woody's, we met Woody, himself, and his son. Woody is a fascinating man - a true man of the world - born in England, American by nature, an entrepreneurial restauranteur who has started and run restaurants in many parts of the world. He now lives in El Coco and is about to open two more restaurants here. We chatted for a while and learned many helpful things about the area. The food was delicious and reasonably priced. Service and ambience were great. We will come back many times, I'm sure - perhaps this Super Bowl Sunday, which Woody has designed as an American-style Super Bowl party.

After this third and final breakfast, we went in search of a phone store and then a supermarket. Our adventure in trying to buy a cell phone is described in a separate blog.

After that, we pushed on to the biggest and newest shopping center in town, with the biggest supermarket, called the AutoMercado. By this time, we were whipped - exhausted from a fairly long walk in the hot sun. But we needed groceries and we were finally here, so we stayed and shopped. And, to our delight, the market was air conditioned! In no time, these two wilted humans were restored.

Shopping for food labeled in Spanish was a challenge, especially for me. We bought mostly produce, and read labels fairly successfully. But I got stymied trying to buy canned white albacore tuna packed in water. Bob did not have his reading glasses with him and could not read the small print on the cans. We'll save this purchase for another day.

By the time we finished, it was high noon and the hottest part of the day. We caught a taxi back to the condo. We have taken three taxis while we have been in El Coco. Two were local, unofficial taxis and they both charged 1000 colones ($2) for a ride between town and our condo. This taxi was an "official" red taxi, and the fare was 2000 colones ($4). All rides were fine. We are learning.

Back home, we feasted on the fresh bread, cheese, roasted chicken, and veggies we had bought at the market. Then, it was siesta time for Bob and email time for me. Now, after a refreshing swim and more than an hour of blogging, it is time to stop and "suit up" for our afternoon walk and evening meal. Who knows what will come next?

 

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Buying a Cell Phone in El Coco - Part One

We cannot use our iPhones, as phones, here in Costa Rica. We do not have international service through our carrier, AT&T Mobility, and even if we did, calls would cost us $2.89 a minute!

We had heard, from other travelers, that we could rent cell phones in Costa Rica, with which we could call anywhere in the country, but the rental rate was something like $7-$10 per day - out of our reach for our 70 days here.

Once here, we learned that we could buy a simple and inexpensive cell phone for $20-$40. The phone would come with a prepaid SIM card, and the cost of the phone with SIM card would depend upon the number of minutes purchased.

Today, we went to a local electronics store to buy a phone. We were shown a model that came with 75 minutes prepaid for about $35. At another store, we were shown a phone for $52 that included 120 prepaid minutes. With these phones, we can call anywhere in Costa Rica, but not outside the country. We were all set to buy one at the first store, until we discovered that we had to show a passport before they would sell us one. Unfortunately, neither of us had our passport with us. Why we would need to show a passport to buy a phone puzzles me. Perhaps I'll learn the reason eventually. As Bob says, "that's just the way they do things here."

Well, live and learn. We will be back tomorrow, passports in hand.

 

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Watching the Sunset at Playas del Coco

Thursday, January 31

Today we again awoke to the din of the howler monkeys in the distance in concert with a whole symphony of bird songs. Another clear, blue-sky day, sunny, dry, and hot.

After a quick breakfast, we took a walk around the Las Palmas complex, ending up at a new coffee place called Cafe Java. We ordered two coffees, which should have cost us 3000 colones ($6), but the Spanish-speaking girl taking the order insisted that we owed $12. Bob tried to talk with her in Spanish to ask why we were charged so much, but to no avail. A few minutes later, she brought us two croissants, which we had not ordered. I remembered that another couple had come into the cafe just after we did and had placed an order in Spanish. It must have been those customers who ordered the croissants, but the counter girl confused their order with ours. This was the first time that neither English nor our Spanish worked for us, but the mystery was solved and we chalked it up to experience. Sad to say, we did not like the croissants. They were doughy and hard - nothing like the flaky French pastry we know and love.

The remainder of the morning and early afternoon was spent at our condo. A maintenance man came and fixed the A/C. I swam in the pool and then blogged. We had a light lunch and Bob took a siesta. What a relaxing day!

In the late afternoon, we freshened up, walked to the beach, and headed for the village. Our goal was to watch the sunset, and what a treat we had! We stopped at a little outdoor restaurant right on the beach called Claudio & Gloria's around five o'clock and ordered two ice-cold Imperials.

After about half an hour, as the sun was beginning to drop behind the hills at the southwest end of the beach, we ordered dinner - Paella con Pollo - and lingered through the sunset until dark. Between the restaurant and the ocean, there is a wide walkway where we watched people pass by, young boys skateboarding and doing tricks on bicycles, a group arriving from an afternoon boat trip, and more. Bob especially loves sitting in outdoor cafes watching the bustle of people go by. I especially love the being by the ocean, taking in the natural beauty. We were both happy campers.

After dinner, we walked back to Las Palmas on the beach. It was dark and I was nervous. At one point, in an especially dark place, I heard a rustle which startled me, and I cried out. But it was only the wind. I was glad to get back into the development where we stopped by the little French bistro called the Creperie and split a piece of Danielle 's homemade lemon tart. Delicious - just hit the spot.

Back at the condo, we spent a few minutes soaking our tired feet in the spa pool and doing some star-gazing. The stars look especially bright here. The sky is cloudless and there is relatively little light coming from the ground. One more treat to enjoy.

I have come to understand that it is these simple moments of pleasure - watching a sunrise or sunset, listening to bird songs, star-gazing, enjoying the taste of good food, soaking weary feet in cool water - that are the treasures of life. This must be what the Costa Ricans mean by La Pura Vida.

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