It was a long travel day. We awoke at 3:15 am, Costa Rican time (5:15 Boston time), and Sergio picked us up at 4 am to head for the airport for a 6:30 am flight to Miami. We basically spent a lot of the day standing in lines for various things - in San Jose, to pay exit tax, check-in, security. Then in Miami, pick up baggage, go through customs, check some bags back in, another security check (where Bob was thoroughly examined due to some electronics in his carry-on), walk to the opposite end of the terminal to our departure gate. For all this, we had only two hours layover in Miami. Fortunately for us, there was about a 20-minute boarding delay there.
During all this, we had no time for a meal, though we did get a couple of snacks. The flight from Miami to Boston was quite bumpy, so the flight attendants delayed serving beverages or selling snacks for quite a while.
By pre-arrangement a Gloucester Taxi met us at the airport. We crawled through bumper-to-bumper Friday afternoon traffic halfway home. Finally, the last half hour went smoothly and we felt a thrill as we approached Cape Ann. The afternoon was chilly but the sun was bright. The trees are still bare and things are still brown. We are home in time to watch Spring unfold.
We had a fascinating time in Costa Rica. We avoided the worst of the winter weather in New England, and we learned a lot. We come back with a greater appreciation for where we live - our home, our town, and our country. We were fortunate to be able to take such a long vacation. We are not sure we would want to take such a long one again. Truly, as the famous Dorothy as said, "there's no place like home!"
We arrived in Costa Rica the evening of January 28th, and we leave tomorrow, Friday, April 5th, at the crack of dawn. Our driver, Sergio, will pick us up at 4 am (!) for a 6:30 am flight to Miami.
This morning, we awake early to sunny skies, and we climb the hill up behind the Casa to a fantastic view. The skies are blue and the mountains are clearer than we have ever seen them. We can see Poas Volcano to the west, Barva Volcano across the valley, and Irazu Volcano to the east. Below us, Escazu is spread out before us, with Santa Ana to the west, Heredia due north, and San Jose to the east. The view is breathtaking.
One more time, we enjoy a delicious and beautifully laid out breakfast - the best coffee, fresh fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice, wonderful egg bread from a Colombian bakery, and made-to-order special scrambled eggs (Huevos Renata). We watch the hummingbirds feed on hibiscus and a female robin building a nest right near us on the terrace. La Pura Vida! Life is good!
This morning we have things to do - tickets and boarding passes to print, a hotel bill to pay, some souvenir shopping to do, packing to begin. At lunchtime, we pick up a few groceries with the idea of having a picnic lunch on the porch of Casa de las Tias.
Well, we settled on the porch with our bread, cheese, and apple when the sky darkened, we began hearing the rumble of thunder, and before we knew it, we were in a heavy downpour with thunder, lightning, and even some hail! Though we were under a protective roof, the winds blew the rain in sideways, and we eventually retreated to our room to finish our lunch. Well, I guess the dry season is over!
Later...
This evening we walked over to D'Amalfi's for our last meal out in Costa Rica. D'Amalfi's is a very good Italian restaurant in Escazu that we have been to before. We celebrated with wine (for me) and cerveza ( beer, for Bob), with a delicious meal of Cesear salad, two kinds of fresh pasta dishes, and Tiramisu for desert. We made a toast to our time here, to all we have learned, and to going home to family and friends and Rockport. And, to La Pura Vida!
Bob and Connie at D'Amalfi Restaurant, Escazu, Costa Rica.
Reluctantly, we said goodbye to our wonderful hosts at Casa de las Tias - Pilar and Xavier Vela. They have so welcoming and helpful, and their home is so beautiful and relaxing.
Xavier and Pilar Vela, Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
And so, by 9 pm we are all packed, and ready for some shut-eye before we awake around 3 am.
Today we took our final exploratory day trip in Costa Rica - to the former Capitol, Cartago, and beyond to the Valle D'Orosi (Orosi Valley) and the Lankester Botanical Gardens. We hired a private taxi. Our driver, Sergio (pronounced Sehr- yoh), came highly recommended by our hosts, Xavier and Pilar.
We got off to a late start because Sergio got caught up in a huge traffic jam, due to an accident on the highway from San Jose. After he picked us up, we took back roads through Escazu and San Jose to avoid the snarl. It was a long and grueling drive through the city, and we were glad when we reached the road to Cartago east of San Jose.
We headed first to the Orosi Valley. The small town of Orosi is nestled in a basin surrounded by hills or low mountains. This valley is a prime spot for growing coffee, both on the valley floor and running up the terraced slopes of the mountains. The coffee bushes are planted under larger trees to provide partial shade. Sometimes banana trees are used to provide the shade. in this valley, larger deciduous trees are used for this purpose. At the far end of town, there is a coffee processing plant. Coffee-picking time is November through February, so we have missed the whole cycle from flowering to beans ripening to picking.
There is only one road running in and out of the valley. We drove into the town, took a quick look at the sweet church there, drove to the end of the town, turned around and drove back out. On the way out of the valley, we stopped at a couple of view spots. All this was captured in Bob's video below.
Franciscan Church, Orosi, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Trip through the Orosi Valley, Costa Rica. (Video by Bob)
Our driver, Sergio, at view spot, Orosi Valley, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Leaving the Valle D'Orosi, we headed back towards Cartago, stopping on the outskirts to visit El Jardin Botanico Lankester, a large garden maintained and operated by the University of Costa Rica.
Welcome sign, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Entrance, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
We toured the garden for almost an hour and a half. There are eight different sections to see. We lingered more in some than others. The first stop is the Orchid Collection. This is what the Garden is most known for. More than 1,000 species of orchids are grown here. There were some orchids in bloom, which show up beautifully in Bob's video:
Orchid House, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Video by Bob)
The next section we came to was the Japanese Garden. This was my favorite spot, and we lingered here a while. The garden included two small buildings, a small pond with two bridges - one of stone, the other of painted red wood - a small waterfall, and stands of various kinds of bamboo. There is a lovely sense of tranquility here.
Bob at entrance to Japanese Garden, Lankester Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Red bridge and zig-zag stone bridge, Japanese Garden, Lankester Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Zig-zag bridge to house, Japanese Garden, Lankester Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
As we walked along the path through a section called the Secondary Forest, Bob spotted a fascinating surprise - a long, long, line of Leaf Cutter Ants carrying leaves to their nest. We watched these critters for quite a while. Bob shot a video, though it doesn't begin to convey the number of ants we saw or the length of their line. Very impressive!
Leaf Cutter Ants, Lankester Botanical Garden, Costa Rica. (Video by Bob)
After this, we needed to move more quickly through the gardens in order to meet Sergio at our agreed-upon time. Here are just a few highlights of all that we saw:
Cactus Garden, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Birds of Paradise, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Heliotropes, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Secondary Forest, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Bob at water sculpture, Lankester Botanical Gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Bob & Arica Palms, Lankester Botanical gardens, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
We met up with Sergio and headed back through Cartago. We saw the ruins of an old cathedral and the more modern one that replaced it. We did not walk around, but instead headed partway up the mountain towards Irazu Volcano where we lunched at a typical Tico restaurant called Mi Tierra (not to be confused with a restaurant of a similar name in Heredia where we ate yesterday). Lunch was delicious and conversation with Sergio about his family and dancing and futbol (soccer) was fun and enlightening.
Then, we were homeward bound, with more San Jose traffic to contend with. We were happy to arrive back at the Casa for a siesta before dinner.
Things are looking up this morning. We again took the walk up the high hill behind the Casa - great aerobic exercise. And, we are rewarded with a panoramic view of Escazu and beyond to the mountains.
Another delicious breakfast on the terrace in the backyard, where bird-watching is a side benefit. We saw a couple of hummingbirds that come to a hibiscus bush nearby. And we watched a pair of large birds - we think they are Brown Jays - fly to a nearby tree, gather twigs in their beaks and fly away repeatedly. They are obviously building a nest somewhere on the adjacent property. Many birds frequent this lovely spot - a true oasis hidden in the hubbub of the city.
Our hostess, Pilar, has invited us to join her on a trip to Heredia, a city almost due north of Escazu and of Alejuela. She has an errand to do at the University there, and we have been wanting to visit Heredia and the University also. We have also received some good suggestions for things to do the last two days we are here. So, perhaps we will stop just marking time and really make use of the time remaining to us.
... Later
What a delightful day! We drove with Pilar and her friend Giselda (from Argentina) to the National University (UNA) in Heredia. Pilar and Giselda are in a masters program there - both studying to be translators - and Bob and I looked around a little while they were busy. The campus is quite contemporary in design. We learned from Giselda that there are 58 colleges and universities in Costa Rica, five of which are in the National University system.
UNA building, Heredia, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Bob & outdoor sculpture of the University and city of Heredia, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Outdoor sculpture commemorating the building and development of the National University in Heredia. (Photo by Connie)
Afterwards, Pilar drove us around Heredia for a look-see. Then we headed off towards San Isidro. On the way, we stopped at a wonderful Tico restaurant, Casona de mi Tierra. The restaurant is located in an old farmhouse with great historical ambience. We ate outdoors on the terrace. The food was very good.
Giselda, Bob, Pilar outside Casona de mi Tierra, Heredia, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Connie, Pilar, Bob at Casona de mi Tierra, Heredia, Costa Rica.
Lunch conversation at Casona de mi Tierra, Heredia, Costa Rica. (Video by Bob)
After lunch, we drove a little further up the mountain to a smaller town, San Isidro de Heredia. This is coffee-growing country, and even from the center of town we could see coffee fincas (farms) on the hillsides. Pilar had an appointment in town, and we had about an hour and a half the explore. It was cloudy and a little drizzly at times, but that didn't keep us from getting around, or keep Bob from photographing. As in every town, there was an impressive large church facing what, in most towns, might be a park or plaza but in this town was a giant soccer field. We spent the last fifteen minutes or so watching a soccer practice.
Scenes from San Isidro de Heredia, Costa Rica. (Video by Bob)
Strange things are happening in the world today, such as Internet pranks by YouTube and Google. April Fool's!
But here, in this lovely small sanctuary called Casa de las Tias, we are cushioned from the world - from newspapers and TV news programs - Internet news our only link to the outside world. We are marking time here, counting the days until we are home again.
We started the day with an early morning walk uphill behind the Casa, walking up and up to the top of a ridge where there are some grand walled homes and a great view of the valley and the volcanic mountains on the other side. Great walk, great exercise!
Bob on porch of Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Next, we were treated to another delicious breakfast on the patio - just the two of us today. There were no other guests last evening, nor will there be this evening, but starting tomorrow, the Casa will be full until we leave. We have treasured the quiet and having the place to ourselves. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
After breakfast, we set out to explore Escazu. It turns out that there are three sections of the canton called Escazu - San Rafael, the modernized, Westernized section where we are staying, Escazu Centro which is south and uphill from us - an older and less Americanized town - and then San Antonio, a village still further south and way up into the hills. We took a bus up to San Antonio, got out and walked around for a while. Other than a great view of the valley and opposite mountains, there was not much to see.
Mountain peak behind San Antonio de Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
We took a bus down the mountain from San Antonio to Escazu Centro, got off, and walked around some more, again not finding much of interest. The central plaza was disappointing - dirty and in disrepair. Not at all like the Parque Central we loved in Atenas. The bright spot was the church facing the plaza.
Church, Escazu Centro, Costa Rica.
Once again, we boarded a local bus for what turned out to be a short ride downhill to San Rafael. We got off the bus at the Atlantis Plaza near the Casa and purchased a few snack groceries at the AutoMercado. While in the grocery store, Bob's distance eyeglasses fell on the floor and a lens popped out. Fortunately, next door to the grocery store is an optical shop, where Bob left his glasses for repair.
Then, we walked to the Casa and took a short siesta before heading out for lunch. We ended up back at the Atlantis Plaza and the D'Amalfi Restaurante where we had lunched yesterday. This time we ordered and split a Pizza Greca (delicious) and some iced tea. Then back to the Casa again, where we spent the remainder of the afternoon reading, iPading, and resting. Bob went for another walk up the hill behind us.
Foyer and stairs to bedrooms, Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
At dinner time, we headed down the lane to the main road. We had a restaurant in mind, and it is across a very busy 4-lane road. The traffic was so heavy and non-stop that we couldn't seem to cross safely, and we got frustrated and abandoned that plan. Instead, we ended up at a restaurant called Carpe Diem, located at the end of the lane where the Casa is located. We had not originally considered this place, because we had been told that it was pretty pricey. But we were tired and hungry, and so we tried it. In fact, it was pricey, and even though we ordered off their Pub menu, it was still one of the more expensive meals we have had in Costa Rica. And it was noisy - right on the road, with all the rush hour traffic still passing by, and loud Madonna music videos also making conversation difficult. We came away from the day, and the dinner, a little discouraged and blue.
But we had a nice evening after all. We found an old Trivial Pursuit game in the living room, and we took the cards and took turns asking each other questions. No score-keeping, just an opportunity to keep our brains exercised and ourselves entertained. Of course, many of the questions, and answers, were dated. But then, so are we. And then, another treat. As we began to fall asleep, it began to rain. This is only the second time it has rained since we came to Costa Rica, and the sound was heavenly. We feel asleep to the sound of raindrops on the roof.
We have too much time on our hands. We have explored a lot of Escazu by foot and by bus. We have booked a private taxi for a day trip on Wednesday. We have two other full days on our hands, and so far no really good ideas of how to spend them. Bob, says, "I've had enough of Costa Rica. I am ready to go home." Me too.
We awoke this morning to sunshine, birdsong, and a cool breeze. This is our first morning in Escazu, and it is Easter Sunday. We both had a very good night's sleep - something we had lacked in Atenas due to the street noise. It was actually cool enough for a light blanket!
Our hosts, Pilar and Xavier Vela, prepared a delicious breakfast at a festive table outside on a shaded terrace. We shared the meal with a young couple from Germany who were only staying at Casa de las Tias for one night. Pilar joined us partway through the meal.
Backyard of Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Terrace set for breakfast, Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Festive table, Easter Sunday, Casa de las Tias. (Photo by Connie)
We enjoyed a breakfast of fresh fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice, special scrambled eggs made with corn, potato, and tortilla, along with fresh bread, cheese, ham, and delicious coffee. Conversation with the couple from Germany and our hostess, Pilar, covered subjects as diverse as cultural differences and Mexican cuisine.
After breakfast, we explored the Casa's backyard, with its many fruit trees and other interesting plantings, and with a quaint blue bridge that crosses over a culvert.
Bob and Connie, backyard bridge, Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica.
Later in the morning, and well into the afternoon, we explored the immediate area by foot. Being Sunday and a holiday, businesses and most restaurants were closed. Below is a street scene, a few blocks from where we are staying.
Church and Colonial Plaza, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Around two o'clock we got hungry. We found only one open restaurant and we returned there for lunch. D'Amalfi Restaurante is an upscale Italian restaurant in the Atlantis Plaza, about two blocks from the Casa. We has a delicious Easter lunch of Caesar salad, a special gnocchi dish, flan with strawberries, and coffee. This will probably serve as our supper as well.
D'Amalfi Restaurante, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Connie at D'Amalfi Restaurante, Escazu, Costa Rica (Photo by Bob)
Flan con Fresas - a work of art - D'Amalfi Restaurante, Escazu. (Photo by Bob)
Now, it is evening. As I write this blog, we are sitting in the covered porch on the front of the house. The air is cool and refreshing and there is a gentle breeze. The sound of cicadas ( or possibly tree frogs?) fills the night air. Life is good. La Pura Vida!
All packed and ready to go, we made our last trip around Atenas, touching base at our favorite spots. We walked to Kay's for breakfast, with hugs and fond farewells to Kay, who said "I hope you come back next year." Later, we said a quick goodbye to Hisano, who stopped by quickly, on her way to San Jose with her family. Then, a last lunch at Antano - the restaurant around the corner where we ate most of our meals. And, finally a goodbye and thank you to our landlord, the dental surgeon, Dr. Rodrigo Urena Bogantes.
Then, our taxi arrived, loaded up our four-plus bags, and off we went - riding down winding Route 3 off the mountain and into the Central Valley. Today the toll road into San Jose was closed to outbound, or eastbound, traffic, and we drove toward San Jose in a lane normally reserved for traffic going in the other direction - an eerie feeling. The road is set up this way for today and tomorrow to accommodate all the return traffic of vacationers coming home from the Pacific beaches. The ride to Escazu took about 45 minutes.
Entering Escazu and driving down a main street, we are struck by how many American business establishments we see - Walmart, Outback Steak House, Westin, Tony Roma's, T.G.I.Friday, MacDonald's, and more. This does not gladden my heart. These places are fine (I suppose) back home, but we came to Costa Rica to experience Costa Rica. Fortunately, we got what we wanted in our lodgings.
We Have Arrived!
Finally, we are here in Escazu. The taxi driver found our lodgings easily. We are staying at Casa de las Tias, a charming B&B at the end of a lane leading from a busy main street. This brightly painted and beautifully landscaped house is, according to owner Xavier Vela, a Cape Cod Cottage style home with Victorian touches. It is also very influenced by Costa Rican culture and by the homelands of our hosts - Colombia and New Mexico. The interior decor is as charming as the exterior.
Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Bob at the entrance of Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
The Casa is surrounded with lovely gardens, which we have only begun to explore. (Photo by Connie)
Casa de las Tias (House of the Aunts) has only five guest rooms. We are staying in the one called the Jr. Suite. It is very spacious, with a king-sized bed, couch, table & two chairs, a mini-bar with sink and microwave, and its own (small) bathroom.
Jr. Suite, Casa de las Tia's, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
Each room here is decorated in a different theme. Our room is done in a Guatamalan motif. The main theme piece is a wall hanging of a Guatemalan wedding blouse, exquisitely embroidered. The entire house has a rustic and charming hacienda-type feel to it.
Guatamalan wedding blouse (huipil), Casa de las Tias, Escazu, Costa Rica. (Photo by Connie)
We arrived mid-afternoon, while the owner-hosts, Xavier and Pilar, were out. An employee showed us to our room. We had a short conversation with Xavier when he returned, and we got some suggestions for a dinner restaurant. We ended up going to a Chinese restaurant at the end of the lane - Mil Sabores (Thousand Flavors). We had a challenge reading and understanding this very extensive Chinese food menu written in Spanish. Turns out, we ordered way more than we could eat, and the food was OK but not great. It was a relief, though, to eat a different style of cuisine than we have had this past month. Not all restaurants were open today, the last day of SemanaSantos. Tomorrow is Easter. After that, we will have a great many restaurants to choose from.
Tonight only two of the five rooms are taken, the other by a young German couple who are catching a plane home tomorrow afternoon. It is quiet here, even though we are only one and a half blocks from a main road. It is a relief after the constant traffic and street noise of Atenas. We hope it stays that way. We are hitting the sack early, hoping to catch up on our sleep. The main sound we hear right now is the songs of either tree frogs or cicadas - a very peaceful and soothing white noise.
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